Margot’s Glow

a rare margot de taxco necklace

Margot de Taxco’s motto “As the stars are to the Night, So are Jewels to the Woman” are words to live by for we who adore adornments. You can see by her work above that she strove to create works to live up to that motto. While most enamels are simply glass over metal, Margot created a more luminous effect by applying tiny bumps in the silver prior to the enameling so there is texture within the color. It is similar to the French guilloche’ technique but instead of a machine etching the silver, the pattern actually corresponds to the design, thus creating a much richer, more beautiful effect.

The Eye of Avedon

On a recent trip to Paris, I made the Jeu de Paume a priority destination to feast my eyes on a major retrospective of photographs taken by Richard Avedon, whose art has captured great moments in fashion since the 1940s. The thought of seeing “Dovima with Elephants” (1955 for Harpers, featuring a lovely Dior evening gown) up close in large scale brought goosebumps up my arms, but in reality, I found the fashion portion of the exhibit a bit disappointing. The photographs were small, and there were so many people crowded around, it seemed viewing them in a book would be just as satisfying. Leaving that hall, I wandered through a wonderful section of famous and not so famous faces captured in time by Avedon, which was much more satisfying, but then I entered into a photographic experience I never expected. Avedon’s less fashionable photos were mind-blowing! The real, raw humanity captured in black and white rocked me to the core. His “American West” series I had seen in books, but when I found myself looking into the eyes of these larger than life images, I truly felt like I was seeing the soul of America. These works were criticized for being over staged, but in my view, that’s what made them great. Like his fashion photographs, the American West series read like portrait paintings, where the viewer is drawn to the eyes and cannot escape the feelings the artist has crafted.

Backing it up with substance

When I first set my eyes on the Yves Saint Laurent star necklace above, I fell in love with its simple elegance and artistry. When I lifted up I realized I was gazing at the back of the necklace! Of course, I was delighted to find the gorgeous cut crystals, but I really appreciated the fact that Laurent made sure this necklace was pleasing from all angles. To me, that’s the mark of a great jewelry designer.

Cavalli’s Charm

Gracing an iconic early 1970s jacket I found the most unique detail I have ever seen on a vintage Roberto Cavalli creation.
In case you didn’t know, the great Cavalli rose to fame in the late 1960s through his innovation in textile printing.  I read once that after art school where he developed his techniques he actually sat on the streets of Paris with a sewing machine patchworking his printed  leathers to denim, creating art as well as a sensation that quickly spread all over the world.
I have had the pleasure of knowing several early Cavalli works, and each had its own unique wonderfulness.  This one that I recently acquired is unique in its exquisite patchwork pattern and printed leathers and textiles… but those handmade enamel snap covers (buttons) just really sent me to the moon! Nowadays I expect jewelry on modern Cavalli creations, but on a vintage piece, I have never seen such elaborate finishings.

Farewell YSL

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu Saint Laurent

Yesterday, he passed away, leaving behind a legacy of innovation and transformation in fashion. YSL broke through boundaries, but his focus was always on making women look and feel strong and beautiful. I will not go on about his life, that has, and will be written by others. I just wanted to give pause, and thanks for all the beauty he brought to my life
Rest in peace our lovely Yves.

Sant Angelo’s finishing touches

Folkloric woven trims, though very beautiful and expressive, are rarely seen in high fashion. You will see them in German dirndls, or home made hippie dresses, but even at the height of the rich hippie era, the use of this type of adornment was not often used. The brilliant Giorgio Sant Angleo is the only designer I can think of that successfully integrated this type of trim into a wearable, fashionable garment. In fact, its the trim that makes this skirt so very special. Sant Angelo was all about freedom, and this skirt that mixes panels of bright patterned fabrics, with bright patterned trims is as free as you can get.

Chanel’s sliver lining

So much has been written and said about Gabrielle Chanel. We know her life and loves, her hard times and joys. She is a cornerstone in fashion culture, and an inspiration to working class girls who have talent, and an unfaltering will to succeed. Chanel’s story is impressive, but she became a legend not because she was pretty, charming or smart, but because of her uncompromising quality in design and construction. Her early works are incredible to behold. Under her scrutiny, skilled hands worked hours upon hours to make each piece created for Chanel the picture of perfection. After the war, her styles changed, but the attention to every detail remained apparent on each dress, suit and gown. This suit from the 1960s is a prime example of what I am speaking of. Of course, the choice of fabric and the overall design is incredible, but the jewel tone lame’ chosen for the lining sets it miles above any suit I have ever seen.

Vintage Valentino Has Never Been Hotter

This week, our beloved Valentino is ending his 45 year career as a leading name in fashion with a final runway show at the Rodin museum in Paris. I am eagerly waiting to see what he has chosen to be the last pieces he gives to the world with the label that holds his name. the label that holds his name. I imagine there will be a bit of his trademark red, and hopefully a few fabulous goddess gowns. I also speculate that when this last collection hits the stores, they will be gone in a jiffy.

Since the big Valentino 45th anniversary party last spring, vintage Valentino pieces have been in very high demand. Not that they were ever really ignored, as his style is always pertinent and desirable.. but since the party young collectors have been clamoring to own a piece of his history. Now that he is stepping down, I am anticipating even more interest.

I am fortunate to have two spectacular vintage Valentino pieces on SwankVintage.com right now. The black goddess is a stunning item… but the mod cashmere from the 1960s is a real treasure,worthy of the upcoming museum retrospective that will open this spring in Paris.

The Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera quoted Valentino last week as saying “My biggest regret? Not having the time, or perhaps the desire, to shape a young person ready to inherit my place. And if I didn’t do that, it’s because I’m too focused — the idea of passing on the baton never really appealed to me”. Alessandra Facchinetti, formerly a designer at Gucci, will take over design duties at the label.

Valentino will be keeping busy with the screening of a feature length film called The Last Emperor, a documentary of Valentino and the last 2 years as a designer. The film will be followed by the aforementioned fashion retrospective in June at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. Valentino will also be made an honorary citizen of Paris in a ceremony this Thursday.

Ebay buyer beware – Vintage Shopping in an I-Jungle

I don’t wish to turn my blog into a b#$ch list, but I really feel I should make vintage clothing shoppers aware of the state of my trade… well, not MY trade, but the vintage trade in general.

I suppose whenever there is money to be made, there will be dishonest people making a grab. We all know to be watchful for fake Chanel handbags, but I don’t think many shoppers know about label switching. I have a hundred stories about finding dresses in consignment shops that are obviously not what they are being sold as. I have also seen beautiful couture mangled by label thieves who will tear out a label and/or buttons with no regard for the stunning item it was attached to. In both cases, it is a unforgivable crime against couture.

Now, I am finding this practice is rampant on Ebay where it is even more worrisome because even a savvy buyer can be fooled by a photograph. One prominant seller had an adorable model, seemingly wonderful dresses, and a very high positive feedback score. Early last year that seller was suspended from Ebay for buying 1950s style dresses (on ebay) made in the 1980s, snipping out the 80s labels and either they sewed in a 1950s label, or sold it as “couture” with no label at all. Apparently, someone documented a few such occasions, then blew the whistle. They were removed for a time, then they came back and are still selling today (hopefully more honestly now).

A few months later I found a seller who was taking the labels off vintage ties and sewing them into tacky, trendy dresses (shown above and below). It was obvious to me they were tie labels, but people were spending hundreds on these fake, tacky dresses ($350 for that tired dashiki with a Gucci tie label). I tried to alert Ebay but they could care less. This continued for weeks, I counted at least 35 people who were ripped off by this person, but they were all leaving positive feedback. It was crazy! Are we so label crazed that we believe cheap polyester is couture??? One day, when the dress to the right sold for over $200, I snapped and wrote a post to the ebay message board. By noon there was a buzz, by the next day the chat board Betties organized a mass email campaign to Ebay and got the seller suspended. One small triumph… but the poor lady who bought this horrible, cheezy lace dress that was sold as a 1960s Christian Dior still has not received her $200 back from the Ebay buyer protection.

So, what does a shopper do? We all can’t be experts, but with all the resources availableon the web, I suggest you do your homework before you spend more than $25 on Ebay. The Vintage Fashion Guild is a great resource if you want to research a label www.vintagefashionguild.org. The Ebay chat boards are also a great help.. everyone is an expert there If you are serious about starting a collection, read, touch, go to museums and high end vintage shops. Get a feel for couture, it definitely feels different than ready to wear. Shopping online can be rewarding. Just make sure the seller knows his or her trade very well. A real “expert” can smell a fake a mile away. Good luck and happy, safe hunting.

noTORIous

Had I not known I was at a Tori Amos concert, I would have not recognized the bleach blond vixen who took the stage at the Paramount in Oakland last Friday night. This tour is in support of her very swank album American Doll Posse. The cover shows Tori in various wigs and outfits. As you experience the album, you discover that each character is a different aspect of Tori’s personality, each sings a few songs, sometimes one will do backup vocals for another.

Tori took the stage, as “Santa Bösendorfer“. She is the Aphrodite of the posse, beautiful, graceful, and at times, a little racy with lots of self fondling and a few wild gyrations that brought peals of cheers from the crowd. She looked utterly fabulous in a strapless black baby doll and blood red stilettos. At one point Santa produced a jug of red liquid, poured a glass for the boys in the band, then proceeded to dab it on her chest and arms. A baptism of sorts I thought. Santa has her own Myspace page. Her motto is “Beauty. What is that to you?”. According to that page she is female, 88 years old, from Venus, Texas. Born in Valley of the Queens and she is a Gemini. Tori explained the persona, “Because the Aphrodite archetype has turned into madness and perversion, and Santa is trying to work through this by having love for the female body and self-respect”. Santa played and performed her songs from the album for the first half of the evening. In my opinion, the best song on the set (and of the album) was a haunting little ditty called Body and Soul
“In my temple boy be warned
Violence doesn’t have a home now but ecstasy
that’s as pure as a woman’s gold”

Santa left the stage while the band played on, then returned as Tori. This Tori was not our sweet ripple haired songstress, but that night she was a Tori archetype. She switched out the blond bob for a carrot orange mane, and a orange sequin one armed jumpsuit, that brought to mind Cher circa 1979. Her movements were now more subtle, with occasional head flips to emphasize her lyrics. As Tori, she played her classics, very heartfelt and quite wonderfully. At one point she introduced her hair and makeup guy who came out to brush out her glorious wig. She began to banter about how she can never do her own make up, so when she is not on tour people approach her saying “you look like that singer…. but of course, she is much younger”. She also told us how her daughter prefers it when she straightens her hair so she doesn’t look like a poodle. These self deprecating remarks were a sharp contrast to the vampy Santa’s self loving attitude. I think she gave that speech to let us know that even our heroes and idols have issues with our selves.

I must say, at $55 for an orchestra seat, this was the best concert bargain of the year. Tori fans are really beautiful. Not overdone, but just done enough. I think I saw only a few t-shirt and jeans combos. The tour swag was smart and fun. I’m still lamenting I didn’t invest in a baseball ringer-t that read “I’m for peace bitch!”.